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Thread: smell of fuel and oil burning out exhaust. smoking too

  1. #41
    But your right. It IS a mud toy. Although I would like to run it around town, worst case I carry some oil around with me. But this carb I all out of tune too. I am sure this has a little to do with it. Timing can't be perfect if the carb isn't set right. One step at a time

  2. #42
    well, I think the rear main seal just went bad. it seems to be leaking from just behind the oil pan. I can see the oil splashing out of the tranny housing. although this forum says it could be from the back of the valve cover, I took it off yesterday and made sure it was secure with RTV and the gasket looked good. (though it is a new one) I have not seen where it could be leaking though. so I am only left with the rear main seal being bad. these are 2 pieces vs 1 like that on the newer ones and this is a common thing amongst the straight 6. guess thats next on my damn list. of course I only have saturdays to work on it which I hate.

  3. #43
    wasnt the seal. for some reason, the back of the gasket would push in and not work properly and was pushing oil out once pressure got to a certain point. figured it wasnt the rear seal when it wasnt leaking all the time. got it fixed up in no time on saturday. now all I have left to do is worry about this damn carb. just got a rebuild kit for it and a friend is doing it for me next week. should be good to go after this.

  4. #44
    That's good to hear! So no smoke anymore?
    Current Project: 1978 " Chevy YJ7"
    350/th350/np208, front & rear stretch, MileMarker 12k, D44/OX Locker/4.88's, 12-bolt/Detroit Locker/4.88's, 38.50x14.50r15 TSL/SX, 15x14 Centerline Wheels,

  5. #45
    very very minimal smoke coming from the breather. but non out of the exhaust like before. I am hoping with this freshly rebuilt carb, I can check my timing and I am sure it is a bit off. then I can smooth everything else out on it and hope it runs like I want it to.

  6. #46
    Cool. All i can offer with the carb tuning is moral support cuz i really don't know how to tune them. That's why i run edelbrocks. Might not be the best performance carbs but they are stupid proof.
    Current Project: 1978 " Chevy YJ7"
    350/th350/np208, front & rear stretch, MileMarker 12k, D44/OX Locker/4.88's, 12-bolt/Detroit Locker/4.88's, 38.50x14.50r15 TSL/SX, 15x14 Centerline Wheels,

  7. #47
    hah.. I am having a friend rebuild it for me and tune it to the best of his abilities. he is pretty knowledgeable. what he doesn't know he exhaustedly researches it. so I feel confident.

    one thing I need to get taken care of though for sure is the exhaust manifold gasket (donut gasket?) it seems to be pretty much welded on there. I have tried and tried and tried to get it off and no luck. I am thinking I need to just take the whole thing off and cut it carefully. ?? but there is defiantly a leak right there that needs fixed. any thoughts or suggestions?

  8. #48
    If you can remove the exhaust or at least lower it enough, hit it with one of those $20 propane torch kits at Advance Auto to heat it up then try to pry it off.
    Current Project: 1978 " Chevy YJ7"
    350/th350/np208, front & rear stretch, MileMarker 12k, D44/OX Locker/4.88's, 12-bolt/Detroit Locker/4.88's, 38.50x14.50r15 TSL/SX, 15x14 Centerline Wheels,

  9. #49
    not a bad idea.. thanks for that. how long should I hold it on there for? 20 seconds? 2 minutes?

  10. #50
    Don't know. Just try it for a short time first on one side to see if you are able to even move it. If that doesn't work heat it up longer. Its an exhaust so it can handle a good amount of heat. You'll probably have to work your way around it.
    Current Project: 1978 " Chevy YJ7"
    350/th350/np208, front & rear stretch, MileMarker 12k, D44/OX Locker/4.88's, 12-bolt/Detroit Locker/4.88's, 38.50x14.50r15 TSL/SX, 15x14 Centerline Wheels,

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